Introducing your dog to gunfire is a very controversial topic. Opinions vary as to when and how to accomplish this. New dog owners who have never tried this tend to be very apprehensive when it comes to actually going forward and putting their dog under a gun. There are several ways to properly introduce a pup to gunfire, with that there are many more ways not to. Doing this wrong could potentially ruin a hunting dog; because once they become gun shy it is very hard to break them of it.

I usually wait until after 6 months of age, letting the ears develop and mature is wise as not to damage a growing and developing ear. Also waiting until at least 6 months gives the dog a solid foundation of obedience. This allows the trainer to work the dog while incorporating gunfire.

There are 2 keys to successfully getting a dog under a gun, pleasure and gradual increase. It is crucial for the dog to associate a fun or pleasurable activity with the sound of gunfire so the dog does not become spooked. Gradual increase in volume and proximity is also important so the dog can get used to the sound.

You can attain both of these key points by using the following training session:

1. Stand with your dog at heel, position a shooter about 100yds behind you
2. When you toss the bumper have the shooter shoot safely into the air.
3. Send the dog on the retrieve.
4. The shooter will now move closer (10-15yds)
5. Repeat steps 2-4 until the shooter is standing next to you.

• If the dog at anytime shows that the noise is bothersome, move back one station until the dog becomes comfortable.

              Those steps should get you on the right track to having a dog that is ready and eager to retrieve after gun shots.

         Safe breeding grounds and nesting spots are vital to the good hatch of waterfowl every year. While a lot depends on Mother Nature we as waterfowlers and conservationist can do a lot to help better the odds. Projects that include hen houses and wood duck boxes can drastically improve an area’s waterfowl production rate by giving them a safe haven to nest. Other conservation projects include banding; this helps track migration patterns and life cycles of waterfowl.     

        Sometimes called “Mallard Factories”, these easy to build and install structures give mallard hens a safe place to lay their eggs in the spring, away from increasing numbers of prairie predators such as raccoons and skunks. Research has shown that on average, a hen mallard will have a successful nest about 80% of the time in a Hen House, whereas nests on the ground may have only a 0-20% chance of surviving.

        Wood Duck boxes are another version of a nesting habitat project to help boost brood survival rate. Several important factors must be considered when selecting sites to place wood duck boxes. Suitable brood habitat must be available within a couple of hundred yards in order for ducklings to survive once they exit the box. In addition, shallow, fertile wetlands with thick cover and an abundance of invertebrates typically provide the best habitat for broods. Ideally, boxes should be erected on either wooden posts or metal conduits outfitted with predator guards.

           While nesting projects are a good winter and early spring project, banding projects can be done throughout the summer. Banding is an excellent way to track migration patterns and life cycles of waterfowl. By doing this biologists can better plan conservation projects and hunting zones and regulations.

Many people in the boating community share a common concern when it comes to the care and life of their Marine Batteries.  Will my batteries last more than one season?  Do I really need to pull my batteries out of the boat and store them in my basement over the winter?  How do I know that my battery is charged all the way?  Did I hook my battery charger up the correct way?  These are just a few of the questions we hear when discussing our batteries and chargers during the course of a day.  The most common question that is asked is this, "Which charger would you put on your battery?" 

Time and time again my answer is the same.   First I will always determine which unit they need based off the total number of batteries in the customer's boat.  Each battery needs it's own seperate bank.  It doesn't matter if you have a 12, 24, or 36 volt system or even how you have the batteries wired together.  This is something you will have to keep in mind when selecting any on-board charging system.  Then I respond with, "I would go with one of the XPS iT on-board chargers."  With iT's many features and light weight design, the iT charger takes care of your batteries better than anything else we have on our shelves.

The XPS Generation 4 Intelligent Technology (also known as iT) makes it easy to maintain your battery and extends the life of the battery.  The Digital Pulse Charging Technology contains precision software that controls the unit for multi-stage charging.  Real time "check battery bank" LED service indicators identify errors in installation wiring or failing batteries.  The "Go Fish" indicator lights up when it's time to hit the water with a fully charged battery. 

 http://www.basspro.com/Bass-Pro-Shops-XPS-Intelligent-Technology-Series-OnBoard-Marine-Battery-Charger-XPS-iT-5/5/product/10224684/

While plugged in the intelligent battery bank monitoring and inicator lighting will only illuminate if a battery on-board is lower than 2 volts or is mis-wired during instillation.  It also has Transfer-On-Demand Technology which automatically maintains your engine battery while distributing the remaining amps (different models have different amp ratings)  to your trolling motor batteries when needed.  For instance, if you have the 15 amp-3 bank charger (for boats containing 2 trolling motor batteries and 1 starting battery), iT will charge your starting battery with 5 amps and each of your trolling motor batteries with 5 amps each.  Once your first battery is fully charged iT will transfer that 5 amps to the other banks distributing the total 15 amps to the other 2 batteries.  Then when the next is charged, it will send all 15 to the last battery, all the while, making sure that your other batteries are fully charged.  During this charging, iT will digitally control the multi-stage charging process to maximize the life of your battery. 

One of our customer's favorite features is the fact that this multi-stage charging process contains an innovative 21 day pulse reconditioning mode that will condition the battery by sending small pulses of energy to the plates of the battery, which causes them to shake and knock the sulfation off of the plates.  Then the unit makes sure that the battery is still charged and, if not, proceeds to the charging process again making sure that the battery is maintained.  This will extend the life of your batteries to give you "more for your money" and you don't have to pull your batteries out of your boat during the off season anymore!  Just plug it in when you get back from your boating or fishing excursions and walk away, letting the charger take care of the batteries.

In short, the XPS iT On-Board Charger is your complete package when it comes to on-board chargers.  No more hasseling with portable battery chargers going from one battery to the next repeating this every time you use your boat!  Just Plug and Play!

The Nickel Boron coating has been in the firearms market for several years now and is fairly well known. However new to the firearms industry in the last 2 years is WMD Guns out of Stuart, FL. Dealing in several different firearms coatings, WMD is quickly rising to the top as the best and one of the only companies offering thallium stabilized NiB process aptly dubbed NiB-X or Nickel Boron to the Extreme

                WMD is offering not only new parts coated in NiB-X but also, firearm upgrades as well as selling their own AR-15 platform, The Beast. Also available from WMD are refurbished Glocks. In addition to NiB-X WMD offers Nitromet a high performance Salt Bath Nitrocarbonization surface treatment, among others.

                The NiB-X coating offers corrosion resistance, scratch resistance, and lubrication. With hardness close to that of diamonds, not much other than Nickel Boron can wear down a coating. The coating itself is self lubricious with small nodules acting as ball bearings allowing components to function dry. Adding a wet lube (gun oil, CLP) to coated components may actually slow down the action. It is recommended that if any lube is to be used at all to use a dry Teflon or graphite style.

                One major benefit of running your weapon dry is that there is nothing for dirt, sand and grit to stick to causing malfunctions allowing the operator to run flawlessly in the harshest of environments. These harsh environments include saltwater, with its high corrosion resistance NiB-X is an excellent application to weapons that are based on the coast.

                The Nickel Boron comes out as a matte nickel/stainless looking finish which can be polished to a chrome look. Topcoats in almost any color can be added over the NiB-X to totally customize the look of your weapon. Pretty much any component can be coated on your weapon allowing for a near indestructible firearm.  A price sheet and order form is available on WMD Guns website.

Consider the purchase of a firearm as an investment. Something that can accrue value over time if properly managed. Granted not all firearms are going to become collectors items and allow you to double your money, but the better shape they are in the more they will hold their value. Taking care of your firearm is more than just being careful when handling them. Proper cleaning, maintenance and storage are also vital aspects of retaining your firearms value.

I was always taught to properly clean my firearm after every use if possible. I bring that lesson with me to the present, especially during waterfowl season. During a days hunt in a field my shotgun may become impregnated with dirt, feathers, corn stalks, and other crop matter. So after each hunt I strip my shotgun down clear out any debris and run a bore snake through the barrel to insure that when I pull the trigger on a banded pintail my browning goes boom and not click. Some guys are lucky enough to go an entire season without a cleaning and still have a functioning gun, not my recommendation. Stripping your firearm down after a hunt also allows you to inspect for any defects or abnormalities in the structure.

If there are such defects and abnormalities in the the weapon proper maintenance is your next step. If it is something simple like a loose screw or worn out butt pad that you can fix yourself you can save a little money doing so. However if it is an issue that is of a more complicated nature you may want to seek the advice and service of a licensed gunsmith. Performing maintenance on your firearm will not only prolong the life of it but also protect the value.

Storage and safe keeping is the final piece of the puzzle to protecting your firearm. Keeping your gun in a safe with a good dehydrator is optimal. If you don't have a safe a gun cabinet with some sort of dehydration is your next best option. Within the safe I also like to to keep my firearms inside a gun sock which is usually impregnated with silicone to inhibit rust and corrosion. A safe is really your best option as it protects the firearm from damage, theft, corrosion and from the possibility of the curious hands of children.

If you maintain your firearms and store them in a safe and secure environment then you should have something to pass down to future generations, or to possibly sell for a profit. Firearm care is a simple and easy way to protect your investment.

         The weather is getting warmer and hunting season is getting ever closer. The time to get your favorite hunting buddy back in shape both mentally and physically. Over the offseason laying on the couch has taken its toll on both. Easing into a workout routine is vital to making sure you retriever can perform this fall when it comes time to work.

          It is important to involve a mixture of both water and field excercises to ready your dog for any situation. Water retreives are an excellent aerobic workout as well as being easy on your dogs joints. Be sure to work on commands and obedience. Field retrieves offer great practice as well in basic marking and blind retrieves. Working on dry land also provides a little more flexibility when it comes to running training drills. 

         With tempratures rising it is important that you keep your dog well hydrated. If possible alternate water and field drills to keep your dog cool. Basic single and double marks are a good way to start off your dog this spring. You can eventually move your way up to a wagon wheel style excercise really testing your dogs marking and obedience abilities. Be sure to incorporate "aiming" you pooch when sending him on marked birds. This will assist you later in sending your dog on blind retrieves.

           When it comes time to start working blind retrieves start by throwing a single in short grass or water, once you send your dog throw the second bumber to your 3-5 o'clock position. This ensures that the dog will not see where the bird landed. When the dog returns with the first bird heel him, and aim him at the blind bird and let him go. Hopefully he will run a straight line in the direction you were pointing. In short grass it should be fairly easy to pick up the outline of the bird.

           Once your dog has mastered the blind retrieve in short grass move up to taller grass and brush. It helps now to use a bumper covered in scent. This allows your dog to be able to use his nose to find that bird in tall grass such as he would in a real situation. Let him hunt and use his nose, it is his best tool especially for a cripple that has buried its self in the grass.

Start off slow and work into the tougher excercises. By the end of summer you both will be ready for season. Your dog will have the mental sharpness he did at the end of last season and his body will be ready to handle long days in the field retrieving.

The short answer is, "It varies."  The long, drawn-out answer is that it varies, and I'll show you a few of them.

Let me start by saying this: The Rusty Crayfish is an invasive species and is one that has been horrendously detrimental to many of the fisheries in which it's been introduced.  It's been confirmed in Iowa and Nebraska, and it's very, very easy to determine if it is, in fact, a Rusty crayfish by the spots on the side.  If you see these guys, notify your local DNR office or Game and Parks representative.

In this example of a Rusty that was found in Omaha, NE in 2010. It's easy to see the green pumpkin, the brown, and the orange that is commonly associated with crayfish patterns. 

Crayfish, generally, turn various shades of blue when they're molting.  In many cases, they're a rather brilliant blue, however the colors tend to be rather subdued.  Blue crayfish patterns are a relative staple for us in the Midwest, particularly in the spring of the year.  (Crayfish patterns in general are exceptional in spring because of their availability.)

You can still see the spots on the side of this Rusty, if you look close.  It's just that instead of being rust colored, it's now blue.

One of the best colors to use when crawfish are in this stage is the Blue Craw, or Sapphire Blue from Rage Tail.  http://www.basspro.com/Strike-King-Rage-Tail-Craw-Softbait-Lures/product/96636/  Both colors are very good in IA and NE.  At times, the Blue Craw is far superior because it has enough of the green In it that it shows a craw that is just beginning to molt- that's also when they happen to be the most vulnerable.

 This is a Calico, or Paper Shell, that is also very common through the Midwest.  Same blue colors that are apparent in most species of craws when molting.

 In this picture, you can see where the highlights of orange and a primary dark green pumpkin are very prevalent.  There are times, when fishing in clear water, you need to very closely match the colors of the craws.  The way I do this is start with a base color like Green Pumpkin, and I dye the tips of the craw.  I use a couple different methods to do this, but most of the time on the water, I carry a Spike It Marker with me that has Orange and Chartreuse, and red/Blue.  http://www.basspro.com/SpikeIt-Scented-Double-Marker-Garlic/product/44444/  There are times, as well, that I will dye the tips of my craws before going out, then I place them back in the package, and use them as needed.  When I'm going to dye a few at a time, I use a product called JJ's Magic for most colors, or I use Spike it in Colors that JJ's isn't available in.

I'm not ashamed to admit that I stole this picture from Steve Parks.  He's the guy that invented the Rage Tail baits. and the guy that invented the Falcon lake Craw color.  It also happens to be my most productive trailer, throughout the Midwest, and Texas.  The pictures aren't superb, as to the color of Falcon Lake Craw, but when you see it up close, you understand why it's so versatile. 

Falcon Lake Craw is essentially a Green Pumpkin base laminated to a rust-red.  There's also some gold black and blue flake in it that really make a difference in the appearance of the bait in the water.  you can fish it with a Green pumpkin jig to get more of the green to come out, or you can dye the tips more orange or chartreuse.  You can add blue highlights to it as needed, as well.  It's a standby in my trailer assortment, for absolute certain.

You can see from just these few pictures that the crayfish in our area come in a variety of colors. Far and away the best way to make sure that you've got your bases covered is to start with three or four primary colors- Green Pumpkin being #1, Falcon Lake Craw being #2, and a Blue Craw or Sapphire blue rounding it out.

Almost as important as color, is size.  Having two or three different sizes of trailer is key in many situations.  That alone can make the difference between catching fish, and just fishing.

Tungsten weightsaren't necessarily new, but more and more people are finding out about them, as well as beginning to understand their benefits.  One of the primary benefits of tungsten is that the increased density and tensile strength leads to greater sensitivity.  This is to say that, when compared to lead weights, you feel more with tungsten because of the fact that the impact is not softened by the material itself.  Another benefit is that it is far less likely to cause lasting damage if it ingested by waterfowl, or if fish that have ingested tungsten are eaten by eagles, the eagle is almost certain to have no effects.  (There has been no record of acute tungsten poisoning from ingestion of infect prey species by eagle, unlike lead or tin.)  Lastly, tungsten doesn't oxidize like lead, or lead alloys like tin.  The oxidization is one of the primary damaging materials associated with lead poisoning.

In terms of sensitivity, tungsten is outstanding.  Whether as a worm weight, Carolina rig weight, or as a jig head the increased transmission and feel is second to none.  It allows you to feel the compostion or type of bottom you're fishing over much easier.  In turn, it allows you to eliminate water much more rapidly, making smarter, better use of your time on the water.  You can, much easier, discern the size of rock you may be fishing in, or to determine a transition from a hard sand bottom to pea gravel.  It's quite astounding as to the differences you can sometimes feel.  This is also transmitted directly through the tungsten itself.  Very often, a fish will clamp down on the weight, and not just the lure.  In doing so, often you are unable to feel the bite because lead deforms and spreads prior to transmitting the bite.  With tungsten, that bite is transmitted directly to the fishing line, and then on to your rod.

One of the secondary advantages of tungsten is that it is generally much smaller than its lead counterpart.  In some cases, the size difference can be as much as half.  This allows a much smaller profile in your weights.  A smaller weight profile thereby makes the bait look more natural.  More natural presentations catch more fish.  That smaller profile also allows your bait to make it in and out of tight spots much easier.  As well, with the smaller profile, you're much more likely to get a good hook set on fish.  Very often, if a fish has the weight in its mouth on a Texas rig, what will happen is that you can force the fish's mouth open as the weight comes out the jaw.  In doing so, you oepn the jaw which changes the angle the hook needs to penetrate.  If you reduce the profile of the weight, you lessen the change in angle that the hook needs to penetrate.

There are a couple drawbacks to tungsten, however.  The single largest drawback is the price.  At close to double the price of lead, they're not cheap.  The second drawback is that many tungsten sinkers have inserts in them.  When this insert wears, it allows a very sharp edge to contact the line.  In doing so, you've introduced fray.  That's a bumer not only because you're tearing up your line, but because the weight is then worthless, too.  Higher quality tungsten like http://www.basspro.com/Bass-Pro-Shops-XPS-Tungsten-Worm-Weights/product/10210181/ is ultimately what you want to be looking for.  There are several manufactureres of tungsten weights currently on the market that offer weights that are insert free and have excellent finishes.  The two best, in my opinion, are those from Bass Pro Shops and those from Strike King.  One of the primary advantages of the Strike King weights is that the bottom side of the weights are large enough to "cup" the nose of most soft plastics very well.  You get a much cleaner look, and when punching with heavier weights, there is a lot less chance of that union coming loose and hanging in vegetation. 

Give tungsten a shot, it can absolutely be the difference maker on how effective you are with your soft plastics.

There is an abundance of things to do outside during the spring; shed hunting, turkey hunting, and fishing. One of my personal favorites is Shrooming. Mushroom hunting is a very challenging and rewarding activity. Searching for morels is advantageous to the hunter in that it gets him/her out in the woods to do some unintentional scouting.

Morels can be very easy to find if you know where to look. First you need the right weather conditions; several warm days in April with lots of sunshine are a good indicator to start looking. Morels can pop up overnight so a string of 60-70 degree days could pay off in some good finds. The next thing you want to find is water, mushrooms need moisture to grow. I have found most of my honey holes next to small ponds, creeks and rivers.

There are several indicator trees that point out good areas to find morels. Stands of Ash, Elm and Poplar trees are great areas to start looking for shrooms. Check near downed decaying logs. Likewise there are areas that you want to avoid; Morels do not grow well near Oak. The oak leaves that have fallen make the ground to acidic for mushrooms to grow.

In the early spring hunt Southern facing slopes. These areas will get more direct sunlight and warm the ground temperature much faster. Morels will tend to show themselves first in areas that will get more sunlight early on in the season.

Later on in the season, hunt Northern facing slopes. These areas get less direct sunlight and will tend to hold the moisture a bit longer. When the weather becomes more on the hot side morels will dry up and stop producing in areas with direct sunlight most of the day. By hunting northern facing slopes, you can actually extend your morel season a bit longer.

Take a mesh bag or onion sack with you to place your morels in. It is believed by many that as you walk around the woods the spores from the morels in your bag will fall though the bag and produce more morels in the upcoming years. There have been many debates about this subject and I will be adding a page to this web site about morel spores and mesh bags. If anything else the mesh bag will keep your morels fresh and let air circulate around them while you are still in the woods. Plastic bags will build up heat and cause your morels to mildew.

Always try to remember the spots that you find morels. Morels tend to fruit in the same spots from year to year but not in all cases. I always mark a spot with my GPS that has a good flush. I have found that some of my spots that hold a good flush usually produce a flush in the following year if this is one of those spots that continues year after year.

      When it comes to spring and summer concealed carry, size does matter. With the onset of warmer weather comes the ability to wear shorts and t-shirts. The more comfortable clothing leaves something to be desired when it comes to concealing a firearm. There are some things to consider when you want to start carrying under less clothing. Size of your weapon, size and style of holster are important aspects of conceal carry during warmer months.

       Before you select the firearm you would like to carry you need to decide on how you want to carry it. Inside the waist band (IWB), outside the waist band (OWB) or in a concealed shirt. IWB and a concealed shirt tend to be the most popular options when it comes to summer carry. 5.11 Tactical makes a conceal shirt that has holsters built into the shirt at about the rib cage allowing for one to carry a mid size auto with extra mags. Several companies make a tuckable holster, which allows you to carry IWB and still tuck your shirt in. Crossbreed, Galco, and Desantis are all companies that make a quality tuckable holster. Something to keep in mind when carrying is to use a quality belt that will not stretch under the added weight of your firearm.

      Now that you have decided how you want to carry you need to pick out what you are going to carry. Compact and subcompact autos, along with snub nose revolvers and pocket .380's are the most popular. The Glock 19/23 26/27 along with S&W MP Compact and shield are some of the most sought after compact and sub-compact handguns. All afford a quality firearm for around $500. Pocket carry requires a much smaller pistol or revolver. The Ruger series of LC pistols and revolvers offer a a solid option to pocket carry. The LCR in .38 or .357 Mag, the LCP in .380 Auto or LC9 in 9mm are all good options for pocket carry.

        Whatever style and size  you choose, be sure that you can carry it comfortably as well as fully concealed. Get out and practice with your firearm as well, it will do you no good if you are not proficient at shooting it. Practice your draw with your unloaded carry gun, you need to be able to draw and aim efficiently  should a situation ever arise where drawing your firearm is necessary.

      Chances are unless you are hunting snow geese in the spring, both you and your hunting buddy have been held up on the couch for a while. With the end of waterfowl season and the onset of cold snowy weather waterfowlers and their dogs tend to lack motivation for training and exercise. With six months till the start of any waterfowling activity now is the time to get back in shape both mentally and physically. Not to mention the weather is getting warmer, but it is still cool enough where a vigorous workout won't leave your dog overheated.

      At the end of season your dog was more than likely running like a well oiled machine, but after several long months of laying on the couch he has probably packed on a few pounds and lost some mental sharpness. With milder weather setting in, it is a good idea to get both of you out and back in shape. Start simple with basic obedience and retrieving drills. Also don't overdue it, you are in no shape to go run a marathon, neither is your dog.

      Always begin your sessions with fun throws or "hup hups". Just throw a toy or a bumper not used for regular training to get your dog excited and focused on the task at hand. This is also a good way to get those first throw excitement jitters out, so that when it is time to work your dog is focused. Allow him to run and burn off some steam, remember to keep the training fun or your dog will lose interest.

        Get your lead and training collar out it is time to get back to basics. Heel and sit, while seem easy enough to remember may have worn off some in the off season. Your dog will still remember the command but his response to it may be delayed or resistant. Walk your dog up and down your yard, correcting any deviance in heel with the training collar. Occasionally stop, and pull up on the lead causing your dog to sit, this will reinforce that when you stop he sits. When turning, alternate the direction in which you turn, always correcting any issues with heeling.

        Now it is time to work on those retrieving skills and commands. With a quick release lead attached to the collar bring your dog to heel. Toss the dummy out ensuring that your dog stays at heel while you throw. About mid flight, give him the ok with his name or whatever your go word is and let him go. Gradually lengthen the time you wait before releasing the dog. This will reinforce the idea of holding tight until being told to go. Gradually reintroduce multiple throws and blinds once your dog is back up to speed. Their is nothing worse for a dog's confidence than failure and trainer frustration.

Don't overdue it gradually get your dog back into shape 15 minutes at a time. Plenty of water during the session is also a good idea. End your session the same way it started, with fun throws, giving the dog a reward for doing a good job, make sure you leave him wanting more. Before you know it season will be just around the corner and you both will be ready perform at your best.

      When it comes to snow goose hunting, it is a numbers game. Everything is multiplied, from the number of decoys you use, the number of shells in your gun, the amount of geese in the air to your bag limit. Everything you do is going to require more effort and be more expensive, but it is all worth it in the end to watch 25,000 geese cyclone down into the spread you just spent 3 hours setting.

        Concealment is a major issue when snow goose hunting. When you have 25,000 pairs of eyes scanning for anything wrong you better be hid well and stay still. A common way to easily hide in a snow goose spread is to wear a white tyvek or painters suit. This helps you blend in with the spread and stay hidden.

      To truly be effective in pulling in thousands of birds, you need thousands of decoys. Silo socks are a fairly inexpensive decoy and fold up to fit in your trailer. This allows you to build a massive spread and be able to haul it to the X.  The minimum number of decoys I like to put out is 1200, this is large enough to at least peak the interest of a large flock. Be sure to use the wind and the decoys to funnel the birds into the kill zone.

       Late season turkeys can be very call/decoy shy. One way I have found to combat this is a spot and stalk method. This is a less tradtional method but can be very effective when the toms turn and run at the sound of your call. This technique is best utilized in more open country where you can see the birds from a long way off and make an effort to put yourself infront of them.

      Your first objective is to locate the birds. You will tend to find them early to mid morning out in the open strutting and feeding. Once you have located them stay out of sight, if they catch a glimpse of you, your stalk is over. Try to determine direction of travel if any, it's best if you have a general idea where they are headed. If the flock is moving get ahead of them and set up where you think they are moving to. If they are holding up in a field strutting, sneaking up on them is the tough part. You have to get within 40 yds of a very wary bird.

Stay low and use terrain to your advantage. Valleys, ditches and low lying areas work well to move quickly through. Tread lightly, turkeys have a great sense of hearing one wrong step on a twig will send them heading for the hills. Move quickly and deliberately to an area that will present a shot, somewhere with some sort of cover, a downed log or bush works well. When that big tom presents a shot, take it!

Nestled in the corner of a small picked bean field in Southern Iowa, I waited eagerly from my treestand to see what might appear from the surrounding timber that evening. It was mid-November and the rut was in full swing. A warm front had recently moved in and despite my wishes, the rise in temperatures did very little to improve daylight activity in this particular spot. Nonetheless, I did my best to remain optimistic.

Darkness drew closer by the minute, and I had yet to lay eyes on a single deer that evening.  Just as I was starting to accept the thought that tonight may not be the night to connect with a rut-crazed bruiser, a flash of movement caught my attention approximately two-hundred yards from my stand. A doe jogged through a small opening in the trees and a nice buck was hot on her trail!

Rattling antlers in hand, I let-out a short, but aggressive rattling sequence. While I stood there waiting to see if this buck or any other would respond to my calling, I began to mentally prepare myself for the situation that could potentially unfold.  A few minutes had passed with no sign of activity from the other end of the field, when all of a sudden he appeared! A dark-racked 160-class 10-pointer emerged just 60 yards from where I was carefully positioned in my stand.  Locked-on to my decoy, he shortened the distance to a mere 10 yards, but nearly facing me straight on, I would have stay calm and confident as I waited for him to present the right shot opportunity.
 

Now nose-to-nose with my decoy, the buck stood momentarily at 19 yards, quartering away from me. The time was now.  Pulling the bow to full draw, I placed the arrow on the mark and watched it pass through the buck's lungs. Prior to the deer's arrival I had mentally rehearsed such an event, so I would be confident and prepared if an opportunity presented itself. Studies have shown that practicing an exercise with mental imagery is nearly as effective as doing it physically.

Mental training is a valuable tool for archers, as well as athletes in any sport. In archery it plays a very significant role because precise muscle movement and calm concentration regulate performance. The use of mental imagery can enhance both of these attributes.
 

Mental training prepares the body both mentally and physically. An archer practices it so the shot can be repeated exactly the same. Even though we think of this process as conditioning the mind, it also trains the muscles and nerves used to execute the shot. We are actually blueprinting the perfect shot in our mind and muscles. When the arrow is set and released in mental training, the same muscles needed to perform the actual shot are affected. The mind sends impulses to those muscles, which in turn programs them for the shot execution. You need to develop trust in your ability to duplicate the shot and not in your ability to shoot the deer. Harvesting the animal is the result of using good form. Repeated mental practice makes the shot become more routine, natural and fluid. The confidence that results allows the archer to perform with ease when faced with the unexpected conditions of an actual hunt.

There are different levels of mental practice, with visualization serving as one part of the process. In visualization, you will see yourself shooting the arrow, just as if you were making the actual shot. You will view the situation while looking outward, rather than from the point of another observer.

Mental imagery is a higher level of mental training and takes longer to master. You are still visualizing the shot, but now you must become actively involved in the experience with your other senses. You are actually creating the complete shot scenario in your mind. You feel the backpressure, the explosion of the shot and the reaction of your bow arm. By seeing and feeling the perfect shot, you can program both the muscles and the mind so the execution can be duplicated in a pressure situation.

Mental imagery is very effective because with practice our muscles actually contract and respond in the same manner as if the bow were in our hands. The only difference is that one will experience very little physical movement. It is essential that you picture the perfect shot with the same rhythm as you normally use, because the result will be the shot you are programming into your mind and muscles. This level of mental practice raises your power of concentration and focus.

Imagery will also help an archer control anxiety, nervousness and muscle tension. The mind can create the tense atmosphere of a Boone and Crockett buck ambling into your shooting lane. Think of yourself remaining calm and performing a perfect shot. View the trophy buck in your sights and then picture yourself remaining relaxed as you release the arrow.

Mental imagery will affirm your ability to shoot effectively.  A good friend once told, “Perceived confidence is achieved confidence.  Picture yourself in a positive manner and you will have the confidence to perform in a positive manner”.

Turkey season is right around the corner, and for those of you who are gearing up for the upcoming season, read on.  Turkey hunters are a passionate and dedicated group. Those that chase turkeys with archery equipment take the challenge of harvesting a nice tom or jake this spring to the next level. Getting a bead on a tom with a shotgun can be hard enough but when you decide to do it with your bow, that difficulty becomes significantly higher.

What is the best type of broadheads for bowhunting turkeys? This can be a tough one. Just like when choosing the best broadhead for other types of hunting seasons, much of this decision is based primarily of personal preference.  With this being stated, my preference is mechanical broadheads. They fly like field tips and due to the “mechanical” expansion, they normally will stay within the turkey opposed to getting a complete pass-through.  When shooting turkeys with broadheads, if they run/fly after the shot, they usually do not leave the best blood trails. The ideal shot is to accurately place an arrow that penetrates at least one wing, if not both, while hitting the vitals. This will ensure a quick kill and a bird that is unable to fly.

When hunting for turkeys with a bow, your setup is critical. I often get the question regarding which is better, hunting from a blind or from the ground? In my opinion, both are effective options, the real question is what type of “turkey chaser” are you, and what is the situation. If you are bow hunting turkeys for the first time, the first thing you will learn is truly how impressive the wild turkey is at picking up movement. It was not until I started toting a bow in the turkey woods that I really began to appreciate the eyesight of a turkey. It takes practice getting your setup right on a turkey with a bow. With a bow, I want them within 20-30 yards to increase my odds on such a small target. Therefore, your setup is everything. For me, if I know where a gobbler likes to hang out and strut and have the ability to setup a blind without him seeing me, than this is a great option. What is interesting about turkeys and blinds is in my opinion turkeys are not as “forgiving” as whitetail deer. A turkey will notice just about anything out of place and are easily spooked. It is important to get your blind tucked into brush so that it blends in with the terrain around you.

Every person is different, and for me, I enjoy walking the woods and trying to strike a “hot” bird. Therefore, I prefer the ground setup mainly because of my style of turkey hunting. Again though, if I have a bird roosted, and I know where he likes to strut, I would jump at the opportunity to be sitting in a blind at daylight in hope he would come to my calling and decoys 15 yards in front of my blind.

Hunting from the ground, as I have already mentioned, is very difficult for many reasons. You need the bird to get within that 20-30 yard range, and you really cannot draw your bow until they do. This requires attention to detail on your camouflage, your setup, and your decision on when to actually draw. What I have found works best for me, is to setup on my knees with my left shoulder facing towards the direction I think the bird is going to come. I try to find a bush or tree that will allow me to have good visibility in front of me, but be completely blocked on my sides and back. If coming to full draw on a tom is not hard enough, add a few hens or a subordinate or two, and the challenge has just increased dramatically. Finding the right time to draw, as it is with hunting any animal with a bow, will be the toughest challenge when hunting without a blind. If you love bowhunting, there is a very good chance you will enjoy bowhunting for turkeys as well.

2013 Iowa Spring Turkey Season Dates

• Archery Only (Resident)

• April 15 - May 19, 2013

• Combination Shotgun/Archery
  • April 6-14             (Youth Season – Resident)
  • April 15-18           (Season 1)
  • April 19-23           (Season 2)
  • April  24-30          (Season 3)
  • May 1-19             (Season 4)

2013 Nebraska Turkey Season Dates

• Archery
  • March 25-May 31, 2013
• Youth Archery
  • March 25-May 31, 2013

• Shotgun
  • April 13-May 31, 2013
• Youth Shotgun
  • April 6-May 31, 2013

Late season predator hunting is the perfect opportunity to get out in the field when all the other seasons are closed. If you like the outdoors, predator hunting is a good way to get out and try a new, exciting way of hunting while trying to call a coyote into shooting range.  This is also a great time to witness wildlife and to be out in the woods doing what you enjoy.

This sport does not take much for preparation. Most of your standard deer/turkey camo will work and possibly even one of your existing guns.  The gun I like to use is a Remington 700 in .223.  It is a big enough caliber to take down a coyote and the ammo is not expensive. There are other calibers you can use that will work just fine.  If you are hunting heavy cover or terrain that will make your encounters up close and personal, you might also consider a shotgun loaded with buckshot, or perhaps a coyote specific load such as Dead Coyote.

You will need some predator calls to get them to come into range.  Mouth calls would be the least expensive way to go.  The mouth calls I usually carry on me are a howler, rabbit in distress, and a mouse squeaker.  You can also purchase any of the several electronic calls on the market, which come pre-loaded with an assortment of sounds available at the touch of your finger.  Perhaps the best known name in the market is FoxPro, which is my personal preference, but there are countless others from Primos, Johnny Stewart, etc.  Not unlike any sport, you need to practice your calls before you hit the field, there are some great DVD’s to give you a head start on calling tips.

The next thing to consider is when to go.  There are certain times that are best to call these predators in.  Coyotes are most active during the early morning and towards the end of the day right around sun down until dark.  You can also hunt coyotes after dark, especially if there is snow on the ground and good moonlight present.  I prefer hunting during the daytime. 

        Now you are ready to go to the field.  I prefer hunting on colder days.  After a storm or a cold spell, the coyotes will be hungry, as they have to eat to stay warm. The places I like to hunt are usually the same places I deer hunt. You still have to play the wind, just like you would deer hunting.  When you enter a field, if possible, enter up wind. Try to find an elevated area so you can see some distance, and keep the wind to your advantage.  Coyotes will almost always circle downwind of a call before approaching, so keep the wind where they will have to circle in front of you to do so.  It is better to not to go too far in to start, as you could spook them before you even get set up. You can always move farther in. I like to give myself at least 20-30 minutes to each stand. Do not be afraid to move farther in, sometimes you have to get closer for them to come in.

       When calling make sure you start out with a lower volume the first round of calling, just in case you may have happened to set up right on top of one.  If you don’t receive any response, you can increase the volume in the following rounds. I like to call for about 2-3 minutes, and then rest for 2-3 minutes, and then start over.  Be ready as soon as you start calling, as it isn’t uncommon to have them come running immediately.  You will not call them in every time, but do not get discouraged, if you call them, they WILL come!

One of the most simple, yet important, ways that we rig soft plastics is the Texas Rig.  It's a rig that is essentially weedless, has excellent hookup ratios, and works with virtually any soft plastic.  It can be used in nearly any situation in bass fishing; it's the most essential rig we use fishing plastics, and it's a necessity to know it.

There are many variations on the Texas rig, in terms of having a bead, or pegging the sinker, even weightless.  Some folks prefer to add a bead to protect the knot at the terminal connection, I'm one of those people.  Tungsten sinkers are very hard, and when repeatedly slamming down on a knot, it can greatlyl weaken it, hence the preference to  use a bead.  Pegging a weight will provide a different action for the bait.  When you peg a 1/8th ounce sinker on a senko, for instance, it creates a much more erratic fall than is generally had from that bait alone.  Pegging a sinker when flipping a tube guarantees that the tube is going to remain compact and enter cover much easier.  In the following pictures, you're going to see me rig a pegged sinker with a bead.  On the other side of the coin, when a sinker is free sliding, it often allows the bait to fall in a much freer fashion, if you will, creating a much more lifelike presentation at times.  With a bead, it also creates a tick, or knock, every time the bait is moved forward from the sinker colliding with the bead.

A sinker stop, or peg, is a bit confusing at first glance.  Simple feed the tag end of your fishing line through the small wire loop of the peg. 

Pull the sinker stop over the wire, and the fishing line that is going through it.  This will double the fishing line for a short bit.  As you move the peg up the line, however that tag end becomes free once again.

Feed on a worm weight, then your bead.

My preference in sinkers is definitely geared towards tungsten.  They're harder, and more dense, which gives you a better feel.  Most of the time I rig a 3/16 in 10' of water or less.  If I am fishing deeper I will often go up to a 5/16 or even 3/8.  Bass Pro Shops tungsten is economical, has a good finish, and is available in painted colors as well. http://http://www.basspro.com/Bass-Pro-Shops-XPS-Tungsten-Worm-Weights/product/10210181/  In terms of beads, I almost always use a red 6MM glass bead.  They're relatively inexpensive, and I feel that red is sometimes a trigger. http://www.basspro.com/Faceted-Glass-Beads/product/2059/

My preference in hooks leans more towards the VMC than any other, right now.  They've got a very unique hook eye that is entirely closed off, which is a huge benefit to those anglers that are fishing superlines.  The joint is resin coated which eliminates any chance that your line can slide through that joint.  It also means that the line cannot be weakened from being knicked by that joint.  They're also a pretty good price- http://www.basspro.com/VMC-Heavy-Duty-Worm-Hooks/product/12060205055432/  Most of the time, I use a traditional round bend worm hook, as is shown in the photos.  I do use Wide Gap or Extra Wide Gap hooks for larger, more bulky baits like creatures and tubes.  If your preference is to use EWG hooks, that's absolutely fine.  When sizing hooks, the most important aspect is that there is adequate gap when comparing your hook gap to the thickness of the bait.  If there is inadequate gap, you'll nearly never hook fish.

Generally, I tie a pitzen knot with almost all of my lines.  It's easy to tie, and it works very well with fluorocarbon and braided lines.  If you choose to use a Palomar knot, that's a good knot, too.  Regardless of what you tie, make sure you tie them well.  A good, well tied knot should look pretty, if you will.  All the wraps should lay beside one another, and never over or on top of one another.  Good knots are important.

The Palomar can be found here: http://www.basspro1source.com/index.php/component/k2/item/323-palomar-knot

The Pitzen can be found here: http://www.netknots.com/fishing_knots/pitzen-knot

Trim the tag end of the knot to be, roughly, 1/8 of an inch long.  In this picture you see the three major components of the rig; worm weight, bead, and hook.

When rigging your worm, you can do it the easiest by inserting the hook to the point that it is just beyond the barb of the hook, then out the bottom of the bait. 

Turn the hook back on itself, and insert it back in to the worm.  If done correctly it will not protrude through the worm, but you will be able to just feel the point of the hook under the surface.

The completed rig should look like this.  The bead, sinker, and stop aligned; the worm straight on the hook and not pulling or stretched. 

For a primer on colors, and whay we choose them, check out this post, too.  It provides good insight on the choices of color in soft plastics and helps to make those choices a bit easier. http://blogs.basspro.com/blog/bass-pro-shops-council-bluffs-ia/soft-plastics-color-choices-and-why

                It’s a sad time of year for hunters of all types.  Almost all hunting seasons have wrapped up, all that is left is to clean all your guns and retire them to the safe until next fall comes around, right?  Wrong!  There’s one last chance to get out in the field, Spring Turkey Hunting!

                Spring turkey hunting has gained a lot of popularity over the past few years, mostly due to an increasingly large population of turkeys.  Many states have such overwhelming populations that they are doing everything they can to encourage hunters to get out and chase turkeys almost year round.  Nebraska, for one, ran their fall season this year from September 15^th to January 31^st, while allowing you to purchase two permits good for two turkeys per permit.  During the traditional spring turkey season, a hunter is allowed to purchase 3 permits, good for one turkey a piece.  That’s 7 turkeys a year!  Needless to say, there are opportunities abound to chase this large, but elusive, bird.

                But what can you do now?  We are still a month and a half away from the early Nebraska Archery season (March 25^th – May 31^st) and two months away from Nebraska and Iowa Firearm seasons (April 13^th – May 31^st continuous for Nebraska; 4 seasons spread through April 15^th – May 19^th for Iowa).

                What you can do, is scout!  These large upland birds can be hunted very similar to deer, and although we are still a month and a half from our nearest seasons, it is not too early to start scouting. 

                Coming out of winter, turkeys will still be bunched up in large groups, which should make them easy to find.  If you don’t already have a place to hunt, now is a great time to start knocking on doors.  Many farmers consider turkeys to be a nuisance and are more than happy to have someone thin the herd.  Spend a couple mornings/evenings driving around in the country and you are bound to run into some turkeys (hint:  turkeys need trees).

If you do have a few places to hunt, now is a great time to start finding some hangouts.  Set out a few trail cameras on your properties (just as you would for deer hunting).  This will help you establish which places have the densest populations, as well as even helping you select where your best opportunity for a trophy longbeard is.  You won’t be able to pattern turkeys just yet, but this will give you a huge head start when that time comes.  Don’t forget that a turkey stands about half as tall as a deer, so it would greatly benefit you to set your cameras a little lower on the tree/post!

This is a great time of year to be in the woods, and with a little pre-season scouting, you can make your spring turkey hunt a success!  As always, please check with your local and state game agencies for laws and regulations.

Nebraska Game and Parks Turkey Hunting Information:

http://www.outdoornebraska.ne.gov/hunting/guides/biggame/turkey/BGturkey.asp

Iowa Department of Natural Resources Turkey Hunting Information:

http://www.iowadnr.gov/Hunting/TurkeyHunting.aspx

When was the last time you had your bow tuned-up? Have you ever had it tuned? If you can't answer the first question, it has been too long! If the answer to the second question is "no", then you really should and here is why!

Bows have evolved so much in the last fifteen years that they bare very little resemblance to their predecessors. Today's bows are high-tech performance machines. With hybrid cams and binary cams, drop-away rests, sights with 2nd and 3rd axis leveling….. The list goes on and on. With all of the advancements, performance levels are through the roof! Today's bows will shoot arrows faster at 50 pounds than they used to at 70 pounds. This does not come without a price though.

Because of increased performance levels, bows are more apt to change tune throughout the course of the year. Strings and cables will stretch and move. This will cause changes in timing, rotation and nock-height. All of these will change the performance and shootablity of your bow. There are several procedures that can restore your bows performance.

Tune-Ups:

Most archers should have their bows tuned once a year. A good tune-up should consist of the following:

Checking and setting cam timing and orientation.
No matter what the manufacturer would like you to believe, there is cam timing involved with every cam design on the market! Timing is critical to accuracy and consistency. If your cams are not working in unison the nock travel will be affected. If you have a Hybrid, Binary, or two-cam system that is not hitting the draw stops at the same time, vertical accuracy will suffer greatly. Also, speed will be sacrificed if the cams are not in the proper rotation.

CAM LEAN:

This is a topic that was blown off by manufactures for years as not being important to tuning or accuracy. In actuality it is one of the most important factors in tuning today's bows. If cams lean during the draw cycle there will be an opposite reaction during the shot cycle. This lateral casting of the cams is transferred to the back of the arrow as it is still attached to the string. This will cause fishtailing of the arrow.

Most of today's bows will utilize some type of yoke system. With a yoke we can set or correct the lean or attitude of a cam to optimize the tune and minimize torque.

TILLER:

Tiller is the measurement between the insertion point of the limbs to the riser and the string. What this shows is that the limbs are tensioned the same top to bottom.

CENTER-SHOT:

Center-shot is setting the lateral position of the arrow directly in front of the strings power-path. Correct center-shot will give the arrow the best chance of leaving straight and true.

NOCK HEIGHT:

Nock height is similar to center-shot but on the vertical plane. With the correct nock height the bow will optimize the nock travel of the string and allow the arrow to leave straight without porposing.

During the tuning process the bow should be given a good thorough cleaning and lubricating.

Super Tune or Performance Tuning:

A Super Tune consists of all of the above but then adds the shooting of your bow with your arrows out of our shooting machine. This allows us to address the little idiosyncrasies of each individual bow. This is the ultimate in tuning. No two bows are exactly the same even if they are the same model at the same specs; they can exhibit completely different tendencies! With this we can optimize arrow flight by paper tuning and creep tuning.

During this process we also shoot and tune each individual arrow. Sometimes an arrow will not shoot where the others do. We often can correct for this with subtle adjustments to the rotation of the nock. Most shooters that use this service will have it done once a year. Most have told us that their bows shoot better than they ever had after having this done.

Custom String and Cables:

Premium string and cables is the key to it all! Your bow is only as good as the weakest link. Most times the string and cables are just that. You can tune your bow to perfection but if a cable stretches, all of that is lost. Most of the bow manufacturers' strings and cables have improved over the years. However, they are still a mass produced product. Throughout a year of shooting they will continually stretch and creep. This will cause changes in timing, rotation and nock height.

Strings need to be replaced frequently! They take more pounding and wear and tear than any other part of the bow. If you shoot a lot you should replace the complete harness every 12-18 months. If you are a seasonal shooter it should be replaced every 18-24 months. This is the case even if you are not shooting much; the bow is under constant tension.

Having these services performed on a regular basis will help keep you on top of your game and your bow shooting at its optimum. Let’s face it, we spend way too much and work far too hard for those few shot opportunities to let a poorly tuned or out-of-tune bow stand in the way!

We offer many of these services at our Bass Pro Shops store and encourage you to make an appointment with us to have your equipment tuned-up. Tuning packages will range in price from $19.99-$79.99. If this sounds like something you may be interested in, please give us a call at 712-325-6000, or stop by our Archery Shop at your convenience.

The New Year is upon us, and most hunting seasons have come to a close. Fortunately, there are numerous activities during the off-season that gives us an opportunity to brush the dust off and keep our skills sharp for the upcoming hunting/ tournament seasons. Here are a few options to try out this off-season to fight-off the dreaded cabin fever.

3D Archery
3D archery does an exceptionally good job of preparing, or in some instances, repairing a bowhunter’s form, and challenges the shooter to accurately and quickly judge yardage. Local archery clubs typically start outdoor 3D shoots consisting of 40 random targets stretched out over a wooded or semi-wooded walking course in early spring, and continue them until the start of hunting season. In 3D archery, a shooter or group of shooters approach a predetermined shooting area or stake and make one shot each at a foam animal target at an unknown distance with scoring rings imprinted on the side. The arrows are then scored according to where they made impact, and the shooter(s) then move on to the next target and repeat the process until the course is complete. Scores are kept on a scorecard, and the higher the score the better. As you can imagine, the unknown distance factor adds a great deal of difficulty to the shoot and can greatly increase your ability to judge distance on the fly over the course of a summer. 3D archery is also a competitive sport, with two sanctioning organizations that run local, state, national, and world level tournaments, some of which include monetary payouts. Competitive 3D is broken down into classes that are determined by equipment limitations, experience, or age structure, and each organization has its own strict set of rules and regulations. You can find local shoots at www.3dshoots.com, and view the two sanctioning organizations at www.asaarchery.com and www.ibo.net. Whether you shoot 3D just for fun, or pursue it competitively, it is one of the most fun and most rewarding ways to pass the time and can help take you to the next level as an archer.

If this sounds like something you may be interested in, we have our very own Winter Archery League held on Tuesday and Thursday evenings. This league is open to all levels of shooters, and the shoots are a combination of 3D and paper targets. Cost is $10 a session with 40 shots per night and each shooter will receive a $5 gift card each night. Lane times need to be made in advance -
Please contact the Archery Desk at (712) 325-6000.

Bowfishing

One of my favorite things to do when the weather starts warming up is to walk the banks of local creeks, lakes, and rivers in hot pursuit of massive carp. These fish grow extremely large, with most species reaching upwards of 40 pounds, and their finicky nature makes them quite a challenge. They are overpopulated in most areas creating dozens of shot opportunities, and can be a detriment to water quality so harvesting them serves a great purpose.  Other popular species include gar, catfish, tilapia, and stingrays. Leave the rods at home and buy yourself a bowfishing kit. They range in price from $30 for a basic spool, line, and fish arrow to about $150 for a reel, line, rest, and several fish arrows. Both work equally well for the weekend warrior, but if you plan on making it a full time hobby or shooting from a boat, the extra investment is well worth it. Both setups will affix to nearly any bow. Determining the correct point of aim can be very difficult when bowfishing, particularly when the fish are more than a few inches below the surface of the water. Light refraction causes the fish to look higher in the water column than they really are, and arrows tend to plane when they meet water resistance. Aiming several inches below the fish is common, but the proper elevation depends on fish depth and shot angle, and is something you can only learn with experience. Be sure to check your state regulations on bowfishing. License requirements and legal gamefish vary from state to state. Shooting fish with a bow is an absolute blast, so take a friend and a camera and soothe your itchy trigger finger.

Even with the lack of big game hunting seasons, the off-season have a lot to offer. If you have a passion for archery, make it a year round sport. There is no better way to become a better shooter than to shoot every day, and when shooting your backyard target just isn't cutting the mustard, get out and take full advantage of what mother nature has to offer.